First attempt at a blog to augment Dungeness web site (dungeness.org.uk). As the first posting I wanted to reproduce a 'newsletter' dated June 1999, which as then secretary to Dungeness Residents Association, I sent out at the time which seemed to ruffle a few feathers. (Unfortunately I have not found a way of importing text from an outside source although have managed photographs). Following the newsletter thre followed a 'coup' and I was ousted from my grand position whilst on holiday. I returned to find I had resigned due to pressure of work! And since then committee has been next to useless with no information being passed to residents. Mind you since 1999 the face of Dungeness has changed - well not so much the 'face' as the incumbents?. As the fisher folk made good they moved out to 'proper' houses and following the interest in the place by the likes of film director Derek Jarmen prices have rocketed form the £750.00 I paid to figures in excess of £200,000.00.
Thursday 26 November 2009
Dungeness sundry........
9 September 2009
Due to the following Dereck J has and also the interests created over the years by BBC gardening programmes DJ’s garden is very much ‘open to the public’ although as you say it is nice to have boundaries respected (nothing worse than to have a couple, hands clasped around their eyes peering into ones abode – (it has happened to me) to see what creature lurks within. Many people have, in the past, asked why do you live here? And the answer is ‘because I have had the choice!’. Nowadays, with changes in attitude as to what life is really about, the comments are usually to the effect ‘wish we could afford to live here. As you say property values are high – but where else can you buy such desolate solitude (well nearly).
Planners only allow re-development of shacks providing something original remains behind – i.e. railway carriages. Most shacks to the south of the estate still have the carriages hidden within and others quite clearly untouched. You probably saw ‘Channel View’ which has recently been sold and will retain the rather beautifully wood carriage within when re-developed.
As for litter – most left by anglers and visitors but a lot brought in by the westerly winds. We have a warden but it would take ten people full time to keep it under control. The odd crisp packet, that may make a good photograph, may well ‘blow on’ to another location but the broken bottles; tin cans etc are a nuisance. Ideally would like to find out who the culprits are and deliver said junk to their front lawn! For some reason I suspect they would object!!
Webmaster
Dungeness revisited
29 August 2009 I recently visited Dungeness after a forty year gap. My previous visits in my twenties, had beach fishing as their purpose and were mainly made at night in winter to take advantage of the warm water outlet from the power station. My latest visit on 21 August was to photograph this wonderful place after being prompted to do so by images seen on the web. I enjoyed my day immensely, first picturing the old boats and derelict sheds etc and finished by visiting Prospect Cottage. While taking pictures of Prospect Cottage from the road I was joined by a couple who asked if I thought they could wander around the garden. Having read the signs re: respecting the property boundaries, I replied that I did not think it right to do so. While we were chatting a gentleman came from the cottage (I thought to ask us to move on), and invited us to look around the garden. He was the father of the current owner and was spending a week at the cottage. We were able read John Donne's poetry on the side wall and visit the sculpture garden created by Derek Jarman. I took several pictures here but from ground level in a 2 dimensional image the scrap and driftwood sculptures tend to disappear against the vegetation. Readers should not view this as a general invitation. I am interested in those cottages based on rail carriages and in how old the carriages are and where they came from. I remember them as being old 40 years ago. I shall make more visits to record as many as possible. I did photograph one from the road near the new lighthouse and someone told me that while some of the carriages have broken down or rotted away or been otherwise removed, the exterior shape has been preserved in the existing buildings. Can anyone confirm this? I am surprised at the prices of the property there but not greatly so. I did not expect to find myself (a lover of hill walking and mountain country even at 62), enjoying this flat and at first glance, seemingly barren (and in poor weather very grim), place so much yet Dungeness grew on me and I very quickly changed my thoughts from "why would anyone choose to live here" to "what a wonderful magical place, truly different from anywhere else I've seen". There is something very special about Dungeness. I hope it remains so. On the question of rubbish on the beach. - well I don't live there so maybe I "don't get a vote", but photographically it is all part of the "different beauty" of Dungeness. Strangely, I would have been annoyed to see such as sweet wrappers or crisp packets and drink cans around and I would have removed them from any scene which I was to photograph (and taken them away as is my practice). However, I was careful not to remove or even move "to a better place in my picture" anything of the long dropped and windblown general detritus of the fishing industry. This scene of desolation and rotting dereliction and decline of the fishing industry is a major draw for photographers and sightseers who no doubt contribute to businesses on the beach area. The bare shingle beach, old (and new) cottages, unusual but lovely vegetation, derelict boats, sheds, rails and winch gear and the wildlife reserve all set against the power station is an anachronism but that is the magic of Dungeness. There is much more for me to see and I will return soon and perhaps make regular visits through the 4 seasons. If any reader is interested I have to date just a few pictures in colour and B+W on a photo website called "Perfectly captured" to which I shall add daily over the next few weeks.
The easiest way to see them is to link to my own gallery there: http://www.perfectlycaptured.com/showgallery.php/cat/500/ppuser/228
For my part I shall have to search out a copy of the book, Dungeness remembered.
Finally, may I say what a pleasure it is to enter "railway carriages, Dungeness" into my browser and find such a mine of local information as in this newsletter.
Many thanks. Vic Chapman.
Start saving........
29 April 2009
Thanks for mail and glad you enjoyed the trip. Good weather does help!
Re 'Garage Cottage' so named as once in the distant past it was a garage.
There is some doubt as to when it reverted to a house but probably mid to late 40's. Someone aged 63 seems to recall seeing it in his childhood yet another a few years older does not recall seeing it and as they say its been a cottage for 'as long as anyone can remember'
Re Derek Jarmans 'Prospect Cottage' its nice to know some visitors to the estate respect boundaries but with regard to Prospect it seems to be expected everyone can walk around it at close quarters and as they please.
There are those interested in gardening and people do like to look at what is growing and then there are the Jarmen followers for whom it is a shine.
On the south side of the building (if you really did not get that close) is embossed a script in 'ye olde English' which does seem to invite close scrutiny. It would please Derek if he knew there was continued interest in the place and I think the 'caretaker' accepts the fact people will come looking around. Most of the properties do not have formal boundaries, as we were/are prevented from erecting fences although most shack owners do own the freehold up to the road.
Latest shack for sale is up at £265k I think and that is in the shadow of the power station so I suppose it will not be long before prices get up to £500k. The last uninhabitable one went for around £150k.
Start saving.
Dear Dungenessites
email from Fraser Donachie
Dear Dungenessites,
We have just returned from a long weekend to visit Dungeness and all our expectations were met - we even had fine weather - and we spent two days there just wandering about. My girlfriend grudgingly put up with my need to photograph just about everything - every shack, shed, boat or piece of rusting machinery - not a very original idea (there were many other photographers there on Sunday), but damn good fun.
'Prospect Cottage' is all well and good (we respected the boundary, took a single photograph and didn't 'rubberneck' for long), but is eclipsed by many of the other "buildings" scattered about. I think our favourite is 'Garage Cottage', which doesn't appear to have changed since 1923 (my estimate!) - we are now saving up £450,000 to make an offer - ha ha. I grew up on Hayling Island in the 1970s and Hayling also had, up until c. 1980, many shanty-huts and homes made from railway carriages. etc, so for me Dungeness is stepping back in time and is pure nostalgia - I wonder what John Betjeman would make of it? I know that his friend and artist John Piper admired the place and it obviously still attracts many artists. We were so struck with the place that I have managed to get a copy of 'Dungeness Remembered' by Ken Oiler on order - it hasn't yet arrived, but I'm really looking forward to it. Does anyone know why 'Garage Cottage' is named so?
Thanks and best regards to all who live, work or play in this wonderful corner of Kent.
Fraser & Karen
catching up on Dungeness news
Wi Wurri is next door to me - Charlie Carter bought it many years ago (from your family? - he sold to a young couple and they sold to current owner who demolished it and rebuilt it. It was in a sorry state and had to come down. Mine (AT Last') still has the carriage as a dining room but cannot see line of any carriage from outside.
As you have seen from website Dungeness is now a 'preserved' area for many reasons and any shack that has a carriage within has to keep so from Church to Old lighthouse all but two that had rail carriages still do have them.
I remember Mrs Donovan well and it was she who made me aware of two properties for sale in 1970 - and I bought At Last. I remember the dogs and the parrot which had a colourful vocabulary. I was ten or so at time - in fact we came on holiday every September for two weeks (from Ashford) from 1949 to 1956.
Don’t recall start of Great Expectations but the film 'The Dark man' was made here in the late 50's and since then numerous films including a good episode of 'Minder' (good for the photography) and we get pop group videos being made all the time including the latest Will Young thing a couple of months ago.
Property prices here are now extortionate - last being £150,000.00 for Channel View a derelict shack opposite me. My place valued at £250,000.00 so all in all - gone mad!!
More Dungeness nostalgia
23 January 2009
An email from Mrs A Keys:
I read with interest Mr P. Wood's letter from Thailand. My mother, who is now 96, used to live on the beach at Dungeness, in a railway carriage which my grandfather converted, later building on an extension for a Cafe which my grandmother ran for the fishermen & visitors.
They lived there for some years, the first year, and through the winter with my grandmother cooking in a pit which they dug on the beach as there was no heating in the railway carriage. Their surname was Lusted and there were 4 children, Mabel, Cyril, Thelma and Freda. They went to the local school some way along the beach, which was reached by running along the railway line and "skating" along the shingle on wooden slats which they strapped to their shoes. They kept goats and drew their water from a well.
My uncle Cyril became friends with the lighthouse keeper who taught him Morse Code & apparently he was extremely good at this, even as a small boy. He later became a Chief Petty Officer/Telegraphist in the Royal Navy. My mother has recently written a book, just for the family, about her life, and there is a long chapter about Dungeness with photos of the railway carriage/cafe where they lived.
There is also a photo of the school. Mum still recites the school song, which was written by the Head Mistress, Miss Wilman, and it was called "The School Beautiful". When Mum was 13/14 she became a trainee teacher at the school, but unfortunately, as times were so hard and money so short, she was unable to continue and had to go into service in London.
The surname "Oiler" is one I have heard since my childhood, and especially the name Patchy Oiler. If there is anyone who remembers any of this, I am sure my Mum would love to hear from you. As I said, she is now 96, and although she has bad arthritis, she is very "with it" and articulate. I would be so happy to pass on anything of note to
Mum. She would be so thrilled.
Thank you. Anne Keys
Dungeness Rubbish
An email from K. Bates:
Dear Sir or Madam
I have been coming to dungy since I was 8 years old i am now 65 this is where i learn to do sea fishing my wife and i still go to dungy at least 6 times a year if not more we love dungy. We are members of the D.A.A but we appalled at rubbish that is left on the beach by other fishermen and visitors my and i often walk along the beach picking up rubbish unfortunately there is not many bins to put the rubbish in we often end up taking other peoples rubbish back home with us it is not just paper but broken bottles beer cans etc.
Re Rubbish Agree with you but short of closing Dungeness to the public (it is still a private estate) and thus the mindless fishermen (I am quite sure they are in the minority - those that leave rubbish behind) but there is very little that can be done short of filming them leaving rubbish behind, taking their car numbers and from that where they live - and then taking the rubbish and dumping on their front lawn. I'm sure they would complain about that but it will not stop morons in general not taking their rubbish home.
Any sensible suggestions on what can be done would be welcome!
Hello from Thailand
18 January 2009
Hello from Thailand,
My question is this.Does anyone know if the oiler family are still living in Dungeness?,because many years ago my father always bought his ragworm bait there before he would go fishing on the beech.The other questions are as follows------
Are there still some converted railway carriages anywhere in Dungy,because we had 2 ,they were called --wy wurry ,and Verderise.They were literally just railway carriages that been converted.,and I believe that many were taken to Dungy shortly after the second war ,may even be the first war ,not sure as living accommadation.Ok,last question,promise.Does anyone remember a Mrs.Donovan,who used to breed Chihuahua dogs,because she was our neighbour,and our carriage was very neat to the Chapel,that used to have a bell on the top.The chapel was just down the road from the Oilers house.I miss it all so much,and I will eventually come back there to live,assuming Ican find suitable accommadation.I am school teacher here in Thailand,but Ireally miss the marsh.I simply love the bleakness,in fact the original David Leans film Great-Expectations opening scene always reminds me of good old Dungy.
ps --I would love to know if anyone has any answers to my questions .
Yours Faithfully,
Mr.P.Wood
Some Dungeness nostalgia
Some Dungeness nostalgia from A. Young, Newchurch:
I thought you may be interested in my family's hand in the development of Dungeness beach. My family are from Ashford and have, for generations, been railway workers. As a young boy in the late 50's/early 60's, we would often visit the guards van near the furthest end of carriages where my grand father had placed it. At night, the bell on the large wooden buoy opposite would clang away and during the day, my father would worry about my mother swimming! It was amazing to me to see the lightening storms crossing the channel and to watch the flickering of the gas lamp whilst my parents quietly talked at night. I remember the power station being built, it was like a moonscape before nuclear power! I also remember a huge noise during construction and a large tank falling from the building killing an unlucky construction worker. I now live on the Marsh and visit Dungeness as often as possible. Oh...if only we still had that cottage! What changes would my parents see now, would they believe that film and media folk hold this railwayman's playground in high esteem!
My mother hated it, yet we all enjoyed many happy times there. My father told me that the best fishing was after the war whilst the rolls of barbed wire, which looked fantastic when struck by lightening, were still laying on the beach. Would he have believed that there are, in fact, not more "fish in the sea"! And the weird paint testing stations........what has become of them. Many changes in a relatively short time......but a wonderful piece of living history ......I love the place!
The Smokery’ is dead – long live ‘The Richardsons'
December saw the departure of a well known character and equally well known ‘landscape’. I refer to the departure for sunnier climes of Jim Moate and of course ‘The Smokery’. I know it was Jim’s desire to have the Smokery continue in business after he left but not to be – but you never know!!!! Jim had worked hard for many years to provide traditional smoked, local, fish as well as cheeses, garlics etc. He had customers return year after year and had featured in numerous TV, film and magazine articles. I am sure all who knew him will wish him well in his retirement.
Over the past few months we have seen ‘Helevetia’ undergoing a long awaited renovation. We were surprised to see that the old and very neglected building was not flattened but with the roof remaining intact the supporting timbers were carefully replaced and we now await for the final transformation with the addition of the external cladding and new windows. Bad weather of late has unfortunately held up work on this final leg but the end is insight. All this after at least 20 years total neglect. Congratulations to the ‘local’ family who managed to acquire the property and was willing to return it to its former glory.
In contrast to what is considered ‘the norm’ for Dungeness, ‘El Ray‘ is undergoing a complete face lift/rebuild albeit with the original railway carriage forming the centre piece. If you could view this property from the air you would see the outline of the structure resembles that of a wine bottle. A feature close to the owner’s heart – in a professional capacity! Not sure if there is to be a ‘Chateau Dungeness’ but we live in hope. Only one more ‘shack’ left for re-development and full planning permission has been granted for its transition. ‘Channel View’ has a fine example of a turn of the century railway carriage within the structure boasting beautiful craftsman ship in the all wood structure. This should look really amazing when completed. We hope the new owners will permit some interior shots to be published.
Work is progressing on conversion of the various ‘out-buildings’ which were left over from WW2 close to the old lighthouse. These are being transformed into very high spec accommodation for those wishing to visit the area.
Dungeness continue to ‘pop up’ on the T.V. in various guises, from ‘East Enders’, more cops and robbers films and in the not do distant past featured in the short movie ‘The Other Man’, which incidentally won the Edinburgh Film Festival Award for ‘Best Short Film’ – starring the very fine actress Anna Maxwell Martin (BBC’s ‘Bleak House’), repertory actor Neal Barry and six year old local girl Tilly O’Neil who following her debut in film making subsequently ended up on location in Budapest and Malta to appear in the feature film ‘Eichmann’ – to be released this year in the UK..
Also, now in the dim past but still being shown on Sky, two properties were featured in the Channel 4 production of ‘Up Your Street’, (in which two local residents visited (for the first time) each others properties. The programme designed to highlight the difference of interiors and what could be done to each to improve values.
Latest land registry figures show one ‘shack’ selling for £199,000.00 although it is understood another has recently exchanged at £204K. what price peace of mind?
Deep Sea/Wreck Fishing
18 October 2005
Anyone interested in a day out at sea can contact either numbers 01797 321282 or 01797 363544
Europe has now got us!!!
13 September 2005
Dungeness has become an SAC!! Designation of Special Areas of Conservation or more fully Special Areas of Conservation (cSAC) under the EC Directive 92/43EEC on the Conservation of Natural Habitats and of Wild Fauna and Flora (Usually referred to as the Habitats Directive.
All this became effective from 1st April 2005. This seems appropriate – April Fools Day.
Do we really need all this waste of time and money?
Talk is of all the indigenous plant life that exists here. Do they know what indigenous means? There was, apart from Sea Kale, no plant life here in the late ‘40’s and what growth has taken place has been largely due to the influx of new owners bringing with them there gardens and plants. The nuclear power stations built form the mid sixties formed an effective windbreak which assisted in the growth of plant life.
‘Indigenous’ adj. occurring or living naturally in an area; not introduced; native!
Where do they think the plant life came from in the last 50 to 60 years? It came from families creating there little gardens, bringing soil from Ashford with all the suburban plants. The soil then spread, Dickie birds dropped seed, the wind blew seed but without the soil brought to the barren beach very little plant life would have been given the chance to survive.
Also severe fines are threatened if one dares to remove beach or indeed fill in sunken areas. This is considered spoiling the natural lines of the beach created over millions of years. Not strictly true as some of the erupted areas came about when 2nd world war shelters were blown up and in any event hundreds of thousands of tons of beach are extracted each year and transported to an area beyond the power stations. Does not this constitute damaging the natural evolutionary lines of Dungeness? Or doesn’t that count. In any event we would seem to be keeping over paid bureaucrats in gainful? employment both in the UK and Europe so it can’t be that bad. It would better preserve and serve Dungeness if some of their hard earned money were spent not on pontificating about the area but maintaining and cleaning the area regularly.
And to top it all, locals in this and surrounding areas are having planning permission refused as the are is likely to flood in the next 250 years. If that is so then what are we spending so much money on preserving the wildlife or is it simply to preserve the pay packets of those on the ecological bandwagon?
And whilst on the soap box re buildings and planning permission. If the likelihood of flooding is the only reason for not building then surely the decision to build is down to the owner and his bank balance. It is his money, why cannot he spend it and waste it if in 250 years time it will be washed away? And would it be still standing in 250 years time? Bureaucracy !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Where to Stay!
The majority of email requests we receive are ‘we want to visit Dungeness, where can we stay?’
Out of the 80 odd abodes here probably a third are holiday homes and a majority of owners do rent their places out on a weekly basis. Having said that they are always booked up well in advance – usually from year to year. Most bookings are for the summer months leaving them, in theory, available for off season. Guide prices – from £150.00 per week.
There are no bed and breakfast establishments on Dungeness itself, however there are two just outside the estate entrance:-
‘Homestead’ – which can offer one large family room please contact Bob direct on +44 (0)1797 321765
‘Pluto’ – named after the second world war Pluto line has a mix of accommodation – Family, Double, Twin and single. Prices around £25.00 per person per night – including traditional breakfast. For details contact Betty Paine on +44 (0)1797 320072.
A shortway down Coast Drive there is ‘Fairwind’, established over 20 years and still with the currnet owner. Contact Tom Gilbert on +44(0)1797321219. Room rates there are from £22.00 per person per night for the doubles and £22.00 per night for singles including of course a full English breakfast.
We hope that will assist the casual visitor and any feedback would be more than welcome.
Canadian enquiry
27th November 2004
An email from Hank Tweedy of Edmonton, Canada:
I am wondering if anybody knows something or has the possibility to look up some information about a family member of mine.Today, November 27 2004, is the day a ship had a collision 120 years ago of Dungeness.
William George Tweedy was the 2nd engineer on the ship and he drowned that day. I have approached several people with a data base on shipwrecks but no luck.The ship was the "DURANGO" and the collision occurred on November 27,1884 of Dungeness.
If anybody could help me with information about the accident, was it the weather, storm or what happened to the bodies of the people that drowned I would really appreciate it.
Are there perhaps any archives or libraries that hold old newspaper information for the are of Dungeness where I can write to, that would be great too.Thanks all of you who read this and especially those who react to the message, negative or positive it's all okay.
Thanks Hank Tweedy
Can anyone help? If so Hank can be contacted by email at htweedy-at-telusplanet.net [note replace -at- with @]
Australian enquiry
5th November 2004
An interesting enquiry received from Allan Staines in Australia. Can anyone help?
If anyone is able to find any maps, information etc that they can send - please contact the webmaster.
As mentioned, I am an author preparing a new adventure book.
In it, I have three boys in January 1953, escaping from Dutch/Soviet sympathisers and they steal a 16-18ft inboard sail, clinker hull boat from a beach or creek either before Calais or just past. Could you advise me on the most suitable creek or beach where this could be possible?
Also do you know who could advise on boating in the channel between Calais and Dungeness? or do you know an old seaperson who would have knowledge of french small boats and inboard engines common for the era 1945--1953?
Many thanks
Wednesday 25 November 2009
Lydd Airport Action Group (LAAG)
Following an email from DM of Greatstone:
i am getting very concerned about the impact the proposals for the expansion of Lydd Airport will have on the environment.
and from PF of Greatstone
I am writing to tell you about the Lydd Airport Action Group (LAAG) and to ask for your support.
LAAG represents people who are opposed to the expansion of Lydd Airport.
Plans recently unveiled by the airport's new management, show that they want to expand facilities to cater for 2 million passengers by 2011 and 6 million by 2021, and a formal planning application is expected soon.
LAAG is opposed to any plans that involve the expansion of the runway as this brings large aircraft into the area and creates unacceptably high levels of noise and air pollution, degrading the living conditions of local residents and harming the surrounding, fragile, nationally and internationally important ecological habitats of Romney Marsh.
We would ask the help of the Dungeness website Club by:
a) asking your vistors to visit our website at www.lyddairportaction.co.uk and registering their support using our online form, and/or
b) including a paragraph on your website about LAAG, together with a link to our site, and/or
c) mentioning LAAG in your publications eg leaflets, newsletters etc.
and/or
d) displaying posters
I do hope you will help us by undertaking all of these.
Having a large airport on our doorstep will cause us harm in so many ways and we need to all work together to ensure it does not happen.Dungeness may never be the same again!
we comment
Thanks for mail re concerns about the local airport. There is an action group in the area who are opposed to the 'proposed expansion' and I will be putting their bumph on the web as soon as I get some feedback from the airport itself.
The main concern would seem to be over the hype of increasing the passenger turnover to 2 million in the next few years. According to Shepway Council the operators at Lydd already have a certificate to handle this volume of traffic without further reference to anyone. The only time the council will get involved is if planning permission is sought for the extension of the runway and or terminal buildings. Then the matter will be open to public debate but it would seem that the council is supportive of any expansion that will bring greater prosperity to the area.
With regards to the impact on the area you only have to look at Stansted, where in the sixties there was uproar over the expansion but after everything settled down the area has prospered beyond all expectations.
House prices will soar and hundreds of jobs will be created which could help offset the effects of Dungeness A closing.
There will inevitably be additional noise but unlike inland airports 90% of this noise will be out to sea and only those directly under the flight-path being affected.
Overall any increase in traffic will bring prosperity to the area but I get the impression those who complain loudest are those comfortably off. They aren't particularly interested in those who are out of work or the fact that the area needs an injection of wealth. I suspect also that those who do shout loudest take their overseas holidays by flying from airports somewhere else that affect others - but as long ass its not in their back yard that's ok.
If you think back to the outcry when the nuclear power stations were to be constructed (if you are indeed a local going back to the sixties). As time went by everything settled down - safeguards are put in place and apart from the odd so called friends of the earth we all seem to accept things for what they are. In any event if we are to have airports, nuclear power stations, deep sea ports is it not far better to have them away from built up areas - even though it will affect a few?
Dungeness media news June 2004
1st June 2004
Following on from a Channel 4 programme on a couple of shacks at Dungeness, Radio 4 brought their Excess Baggage Saturday morning programme live from the Pilot Public House.
Following on from a Channel 4 programme on a couple of shacks at Dungeness, Radio 4 brought their Excess Baggage Saturday morning programme live from the Pilot Public House.
The Channel 4 afternoon show ‘Up Your Street’ looked inside a couple of the properties and the owners visited each other’s houses and had their comments recorded. All very low key and just another example of inexpensive reality TV filling a slot during the day when no one watches. Not a bad programme really and hosted by Simon O’Brien, late of Brookside.
There was some activity recently which involved several AA vehicles (the Automobile Association for our overseas readers who may mistake it for Alclolonics Anymouse). The latest tv ads for the AA would seem to have a few nano seconds of what appears to be Dungeness but all too quick to really identify
We also learn of two groups recording songs inspired by Dungeness. The first features on a cd from Athlete and the other Three Litre. Keep an eye out for them.
Council tax bands
18th January 2004
Anon Dungeness
Anon Dungeness
Band A Tax - but for how long. Following the governments direction that there ought to be more council tax bands Shepway District Council have confirmed that they will be looking at all properties in the area and re-assessing the Bands! What was the matter with the Tory ill fated suggestion that taxes ought to be based on the number of (tax paying) individuals residing a specific property? It would seem the fairest of all solutions but unlikely to ever come to pass
Channel Four TV program
16th January 2004
A couple of shacks on the beach will be featured in a forthcoming Channel Four programme. Watch this space for further details.
local gossip
6 January 2004
From P.L. Lydd
From P.L. Lydd
'Although Shepway District Council denied any knowledge of Lydd airport having any association with the golf club last weeks Herald (w/e 12th January 04) reported that the airport had indeed purchased the golf club - but of course not for any expansion of said airport - We'll see!!!'
Directory enquiries
5th January 2004
Response to local new re directory enquiries - the numbers you quoted may be the cheapest in theory but if you accept the operators invitation to 'put you through' you will be charged over 50 pence a minute - so beware and accept the number only. A.P. Littlestone
Dungeness news January 04
20 January 2004
Welcome to the beach Snoo and Ann Wilson who have recently purchased 'Wi Wurri' from Nick and Kirsty Elliot who have moved to larger premises in New Romney.
Welcome to the beach Snoo and Ann Wilson who have recently purchased 'Wi Wurri' from Nick and Kirsty Elliot who have moved to larger premises in New Romney.
Four enquires in past month re bed and breakfast.
Is any one out there providing this service – preferably on the beach. We have passed on details of the B&B’s on coast drive but if anyone has the desire or inclination to provide the odd visitor with a bed and a meal please let us know and we will advertise the fact.
Did you know the airport has a very good lounge bar and dance floor. Ideal for parties, functions etc. Have visited a couple of times and it is sad to see the place so under utilised.
Did you know that the cheapest Directory Enquiries is 118 800 (Directory Enquires UK) at 19p per minute and no connection charge and 118 888 (Conduit) at 20 pence per minute and no connection charge. 118118 is 49p connection and 9p per minute – the most expensive and the most popular. Why are you using them? The power of advertising or simply a fetish for men with droopy moustaches??
Did you know Enroute the travel people can get you to Paris on the tube (Eurostar for £79.00) day trip or £129.00 for a nights stay including hotel and further nights at £25.00 per night. You don’t have to live local to take advantage of those prices!
Up in Smoke
You never know who calls! A ‘customer’ visiting Jim Moate’s ‘Smokery’ asked if he could write an article about him. The result and completely unexpected, was a 3 page effort complete with half a dozen photographs in the NFU Countryside Magazine (0870 840 2030 – www.nfucountryside.org.uk). The magazine is of very high quality and full of interesting articles. It is available by subscription for just £39.50 per annum)
The article on Jim and the Smokery is reproduced here in its entirety:-
UP IN SMOKE
Curing fish is a dying art but on the Kent Coast, one man continues this age-old craft.
Black tarmac snakes its way round rusted anchors, old boats trailers and crab pots. This is the road across Dungeness, a shingle beach on the Kent coast in the shadow of a nuclear power station. Stark in their beauty, ramshackle fishing huts nestle defiantly on million of pebbles, daring the sea to wash them away.
There has been a ‘smoke hole’ or ‘herring hang’ at Dungeness for hundreds of years, ever since the fishermen who lived there started preserving their catches for their families. Now, most of the fishermen have gone, replaced by weekenders and art galleries selling photographs and watercolour paintings to tourists. But there is one smokery left.
Smoking, or curing is a centuries old way of preserving food. It’s a two stage process involving salting the fish before they are smoked. Jim uses only top quality fresh fish, which are placed in a salt water brine, then placed on racks or hung up to smoke over a low, sweet smelling, smouldering fire. He uses oak sawdust, which gives a distinctive flavour and natural colour without any dips, dyes, preservatives or chemicals.
The brine cures the fish by driving out the water and replacing it with a saline solution. This is essential because the amount of water left in the fish determines how long it can be kept. If there is too much it will go off quickly. The smoke, which has an antiseptic property, glazes the salted fish, sealing it like a natural polythene wrapper, keeping in all the goodness and preserving the meat.
‘I could cure a fish so you could bury it with a Pharaoh and it would never go bad,’ says Jim. ‘It would be as hard a stick of wood and you’d have to soak it for a couple of days to get rid of the salt. Years ago people used a lot more salt but customers don’t want so much these days, so I only cure fish to last a couple of weeks.’
Many factors are essential for successful smoking: the strength of the brine, the condition of the sawdust, the type of fish and the length of time for which it is to be smoked. The height at which the fish hangs in the smokery can also determine the flavour. Even the weather plays a crucial part in how the final product tastes – or indeed, whether it is edible at all.
In humid weather, fish does not dry properly after it is salted. It stays damp and doesn’t smoke very well. ‘Stormy weather is a nightmare,’ says Jim ‘any storm will make the fish turn funny. Storms can turn milk off and they can upset fish as well. It’s only happened to me once and I had to throw the fish away. Now, in heavy stormy weather, I don’t smoke at all. Its just too risky.’
Different fish require different salting methods. Oily fish must be brined for a longer period and they take more time to absorb the smoke. The types of wood affect the flavour too but Jim sticks to oak as it gives a consistent result. The taste is subtle and sweet rather than overpowering and the fish flakes easily once cooked. ‘In the old days everyone around here had a smoke house because they used to do a lot of bloaters,’ says Jim. People didn’t have fridges so they cured the fish to preserve it. Now it’s an art only found in cookery books. They often say salt everything for an hour and a half in different strengths of brine. But it is far easier to have one strength and vary the length of time.’
The fish comes mainly from the Kent coast, although freshwater trout and salmon are brought in from farther a field. Depending on the type of fish Jim uses one of two methods. – Hot smoking or cold smoking. Cold smoking cures raw fish at a low temperature in a specially built wooden shed. Whit fish, such as haddock take 18 to 24 hours; kippers take about three days and salmon about five days.
Jim cold smokes over night when the temperature is lower. But hot smoking, for which he uses a metal kiln, cooks fish as it is smoked. It is a shorter process and fish such as mackerel takes as little as 3 to 6 hours. It involves heating a flash plate containing the oak dust that sits at the bottom of the kiln. ‘I don’t take it too hot because that spoils the fish’ says Jim. I prefer a slower smoke. If it’s too hot the smoke can be so dense the fish will turn black and spoil in ten minutes. I have learned through more than 30 years experience. These days I can look at the smoke and feel the heat to know I have got it exactly right.’
Customers comprise a mix of local residents and passing tourists and Jim’s happy with that. In fact he refuses to sell to restaurants, nor will he set up a mail order business. He is proud to use time-honoured methods to produce a local speciality. Even the masses of modern food regulations that have put many small food producers out of business have left him undaunted. ‘I used to smoke meat as well as fish’ he explains ‘but the rules became to stifling. You have to use separate refrigeration, counters and knives. That was just ridiculous; everyone knows you wouldn’t put smoked bacon in with fresh smoked haddock. It became too difficult and wasn’t worthwhile. Now I stick to what I do best – smoking fish!’
Jim Moate, The Smokery, Dungeness. TN29 9NE. Telephone 01797 320 604.
Open Tuesday to Sunday throughout the year.
West Country Stoves for home smokers on 01363 773 557
And a paper back giving full advise on smoking methods for fish game etc. 0870 840 2030 ‘Home smoking and curing’ by Keith Erlandson.
Bloaters and Kippers – what are they? Both are herring. A bloater is smoked whole and a kipper is split and then smoked!
Letter to the Editor
It is often stated that much of the vegetation is indigenous to Dungeness yet only 50 years ago there was nothing but sea kale so why is the tag ‘indigenous’ so glibly applied by the so called experts? Over the years gardens have been created, plants and seedlings brought in from afar and then the odd bird dropping seeds have been responsible for the quite rapid increase in vegetation in the area. So OTT have the authorities got that one local resident was to be prosecuted for clearing the area around his shack of weeds and grass. He unfortunately died before they could act but it was quite clear to him the wet behind the ears officiator, with his new wave ‘uni’ degree had learnt everything from text books and had not a clue what Dungeness was like 20 years ago yet alone 50. I suppose they have to justify their exalted positions.
From BS Lydd on Sea
I heard there was an article in a Sunday newspaper that there were anti radiation pills available in case of a nuclear accident. Where are these pills and who can have them and what do they do?
Answer
We have traced the article back to the Sunday Times, which is reprinted in full.
We have also spoken with both managers at A and B power stations and also the safety team at Sizewell and Suffolk County Council, who seem to be a little more clued up than our local councillors. (for the record Jeff Stacey 01473 583000)
It would seem that the pills, Potassium Iodate are available but as far as A and B are concerned the distribution of such items has to be left with the local council land emergency teams that are already set up.
There has been very little publicity locally and a Shepway official made the comment that there were no plans afoot to distribute them – even if they did exist.
The Suffolk County Council emergency planning officer told us they are still drawing up plans for the Sizewell area and hope to have a package available by next May – although the pills are available for immediate distribution if an emergency arose. He did make a valid point – do we issue the pills and expect residents to keep them safely to hand or distribute them after the event when everyone will be under instruction to stay indoors and batten down the hatches – who in their right mind would go out distributing pills??
Pre distribution would seem to be the answer but it is felt that in the event of a major disaster there wont be too much left of anyone that a few pills would cure!
Someone out there may know – maybe the local residents committee have them already – please let us know.
See also web page National Radiological Protection Board (NRPB.org). Very good site and you can purchase your own Radon Detector kits for just over £30.00!! We shall make this site available as a ‘Link’
John Abrahams has contacted us from London. A frequent visitor and lover of Dungeness and the marsh. Wants to know what is happening re the plans to extend the airport facilities and the runway and also asks if there is any significance in the fact that Lydd Golf Club has been taken over by a holding company that has an interest in the airport!
Answer – not a lot has been found out. Lydia Terry, Shepway planning officer for the are has stated
Answer
We have traced the article back to the Sunday Times, which is reprinted in full.
We have also spoken with both managers at A and B power stations and also the safety team at Sizewell and Suffolk County Council, who seem to be a little more clued up than our local councillors. (for the record Jeff Stacey 01473 583000)
It would seem that the pills, Potassium Iodate are available but as far as A and B are concerned the distribution of such items has to be left with the local council land emergency teams that are already set up.
There has been very little publicity locally and a Shepway official made the comment that there were no plans afoot to distribute them – even if they did exist.
The Suffolk County Council emergency planning officer told us they are still drawing up plans for the Sizewell area and hope to have a package available by next May – although the pills are available for immediate distribution if an emergency arose. He did make a valid point – do we issue the pills and expect residents to keep them safely to hand or distribute them after the event when everyone will be under instruction to stay indoors and batten down the hatches – who in their right mind would go out distributing pills??
Pre distribution would seem to be the answer but it is felt that in the event of a major disaster there wont be too much left of anyone that a few pills would cure!
Someone out there may know – maybe the local residents committee have them already – please let us know.
See also web page National Radiological Protection Board (NRPB.org). Very good site and you can purchase your own Radon Detector kits for just over £30.00!! We shall make this site available as a ‘Link’
John Abrahams has contacted us from London. A frequent visitor and lover of Dungeness and the marsh. Wants to know what is happening re the plans to extend the airport facilities and the runway and also asks if there is any significance in the fact that Lydd Golf Club has been taken over by a holding company that has an interest in the airport!
Answer – not a lot has been found out. Lydia Terry, Shepway planning officer for the are has stated
Anti radiation Pills – Where are they?
Over a year ago anti radiation pills were made available to those living within a few kilometres of nuclear establishments – to be taken if an emergency arose.
We have heard nothing from the local council or indeed the local residents association. Are they sitting on the stocks ready to give out or do we have to go and collect them.
We have spoken to the managers at A and B and quite understandably their attitude is they are here to make electricity and not get involved in the aftermath of a nuclear disaster. One presumes they would not be around for very long if something serious did occur.
The manager at Sizewell did know of the scheme to distribute the pills and raised an interesting hypothesise:- do you hand out pills now and expect every resident to safely store them away until and if a disaster occurred or do you wait until after the event and then distribute them – in which case where are you going to get idiots to go into a condemned area to give out the little pills. What is happening? Does any one know or is this another local council secret?
And more serious things there are to attend to – the owners of the lovely Streamline caravan have been told local councillors have received complaints about it being there it is. Evidently the parking of a caravan contravenes the terms to which residents have to abide. There are other caravans parked on the beach and the owners of these have not been served with such notice. Must be something to do with the Residents Association!
And the litter keeps piling up!! Not all of it is washed up or brought from Camber by the winds. Visiting fishermen would seem to be the biggest culprits. Other visitors seem to be using the refuse bins provided – so much so they overflow but the fishermen’s litter left behind is a disgrace. How nice it would be to find out where these litter louts lived and then deposit their rubbish on their door step. Me thinks there were would be an uproar. So why do they leave their crap behind? If anyone can photograph evidence plus vehicle details please email and we’ll see if something cannot be done.
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